Easibuild Cube Office install guide

You will already need a suitable flat, level sub base in place to start installing your Easibuild building. We can supply a raised timber base kit separately if required.

 

NB- These instructions should be read in conjunction with the drawings provided with the building.

 

It is good practise to lay a damp proof membrane (DPM) on top of your base before starting to install the building. Our DPM kit is cut at least 100mm larger all round than the base size required for the building – lay this on the base first, then lay your floor panels as described below in the fitting instructions. Then fold the edges of the DPM over on top of the floor and fix the edge trims all around (this protects the DPM from UV damage and mechanical damage by strimmers etc). Fit the wall panels as described in the fitting guide and finally trim off any excess. This means that should water get on top of your base and under the building, the water will stay under the DPM rather than get on top of it, keeping all of the timber dry.

 

Floor

If you are insulating the floor, the floor panels should be turned upside down to expose the bearers. Cut the insulation boards and fit between the bearers - this should be a tight fit such that they stay in place when turning the floor panels back over for installation. A tape can be used to hold them in place if required.

 

Place the first 2 floor panels on the base (if a floor board is needed to fill the gap, then fix this on 1 side and guide it into the groove of the other panel when pulling them together). Fix the panels together by angling a 5x80mm screw from each end  through 1 floor bearer into the next. Work your way along fitting each floor panel in turn.

Screw the extra top plate timbers all around on top of the panels using 5x80mm screws – this will not only strengthen the building but also hold all of the panels in a straight line.

 

Now position and fix any extra supporting posts (possibly between any large openings and/or windows/doors), associated framing, top plates as shown on your plans that are supplied with your building - these will be required to support the roof structure.

 

Before starting to fit the roof, measure the 2 diagonal distances between the tops of the opposing corners of the building – these need to be the same as each other to ensure the building is square. If they are not equal, you need to move the wall panels accordingly otherwise the roof panels will not fit.

Fix the purlins into place according to the plans.

 

If you are insulating the roof

 

There are 2 ways of doing this, the first option is the same way as the walls (described at the bottom of this page). The other (easier) option relies on good weather - you can fix the lining to the underside of the purlins first. Then, working from on top (so you don't have to work above your head and worry about the insulation dropping down), lay the vapour barrier across the roof area ensuring it is pressed into all of the corners, cut and fit your insulation between the purlins (ensuring a tight fit - but do not push the fibreglass down and wedge it against the purlin sides - this needs to be allowed to expand up to the full height of the purlins so there are no uninsulated voides in the roof). NB - do not build in this way if it is raining as the insulation will get wet and hold the moisture in the roof space. Finally continue laying the roof boards as described below.

 

Then starting from 1 edge, fix each T&G roof board in turn, checking that they run straight and true as you go. Cut the last roof board down to fit the remaining space with a saw. Then fix the roof drip at the bottom end of your roof boards by screwing through the roof boards into the drip.

 

Now fit your corner battens by fixing any so far unfixed edges close to the corners (making sure they fit flush with the boards running from the other side of the corner) and also any panel jointing boards (if supplied loose which may not always be the case) as shown below-

Fit the the rear drip under the roof boards at the low side of the building (using 5.0 x 80mm screws) and the roofing material (installation guide

for EPDM roofing can be seen here - http://www.hortonsgroup.com/epdm-rubber-roof-installation-guide) onto the roof .

 

Ensure the building is straight and square at floor level and then screw through the bottom of the the wall panels down into the floor panels to secure into place (in each corner and approximately every metre thereafter, evenly spaced) using 5x80mm screws.

 

Fit the windows and doors by applying a silicone mastic bead around the inside of the cladding oversail around the wall opening, slide the frame/s into into position (pushing up tight against the silicone/cladding oversail) and fix the frames into the wall panels with 5x80mm screws. Apply another bead of mastic all around the outside edge of each frame for a weather-tight finish. Finally fitting any inside trims/architraves supplied (these may be loose until you have lined the building as they will allow for any internal linings that we have supplied to give a neat finish). Separate instructions are supplied if you have aluminium sliding/bifolding doors and/or windows.

 

Your building is now complete, the only thing left to do is to paint it with a good quality waterproofing preservative or paint (unless you have chosen the factory applied treatment).

 

If you are insulating your walls

 

You can now line and insulate your walls by cutting the insulation between the framework, ensuring a tight fit.

Then fix your lining material over the framework, fixing as required.

 

If you are plasterboarding your building

 

We offer a number of lining choices, plasterboard is the standard lining but we can also supply moisture resistant MDF and tongue & groove timber boarding (TGV) (price on application).